Bapa and Umi Going For Umrah

Bapa and Umi departed on 23rd of March 2011 (Wednesday nite)
and will be back on the 5th April 2011 (Tuesday nite).
May their journey be blessed by ALLAH.

Umi with Kak Amnah and Abang Hussin

Photo Shots

Kursus Kajian Tindakan

New Venture

Since the past few days I have created the unit blog and have been working very hard to make sure it is resourceful and presentable to the viewers as well.I named it as KMTKENGLISHOASIS. With the hope that other members of the unit will provide info to make the blog alive and kicking.

But on 24th March, I began a new venture of the ICT line. Talked to Mr Fizaril regarding a few minor adjustments on the upgrading of the blog ( I am a type who is never satisfied with my own work), he suggested me to have a website for the English Unit. I was a bit reluctant at first (thinking that it might be too hard for me to venture....) but after an hour and a half with Fizaril, Alhamdulillah, managed to come up with our own English website.Now, focusing on it with the name of : KMTKENGLISHOASIS.JIMDO.COM

Alhamdulillah and Insyaallah , I am praying very hard to make sure the flow of ideas still continues actively so as I will be able to contribute to the college and students the best I can.

And here's to Mr Fizaril Amzari Omar : THANK YOU!!

Kursus Team Building KMTK

Kursus bermula dari 25hb November sehingga 27hb November 2010 di Sandy Beach Resort, Langkawi. Sesungguhnya perjalanan kursus yang pada mulanya kurang disambut baik oleh warga KMTK akhirnya bertukar menjadi suatu kenangan indah kerana sebenarnya ada hikmah disebalik apa yang telah ditentukanNya.

Persahabatan bermula semula kerana walau telah kenal sebenarnya, namun bukan perkenalan dan persahabatan mutlak

Boringnyeeeeee

Ha ! Ha! Gambar ni dapat lah agaknya menunjukkan tahap keboringan yang sangat tinggi nih!

Hari ini rasa sangat boring. sesungguhnya sangat dan teramat boring. Sebenarnya dari kelmarin lagi dah terasa keboringan ni tapi boleh tahan lagi. Aduh aduh aduh.......dah dua hari dok upgrade blog. Jemu jugak asyik mengadap benda yang sama ja. Dah la tu, Si Fazila ngan Kak Rodiah pulak tak dak ari ni -Cuti.......lagi la menambahkan tahap kebosanan nih......Kerja-kerja lain semua dah siap, sebab tu la yang boring sangat tu. Kalau ada banyak kerja, tak sempat nak boring. Masa pun rasa cepat sangat berlalu.Tup tup dah pukul 4 dah. Dah nak balik. Hari ni rasa lambat benor masa berlalu. Tambahan pulak kalau difikirkan, duduk kat umah banyak kerja boleh siap dalam jangkamasa yang ku habiskan hari ni.

How to arrange flowers

Things you'll need:

Wire cutters or pliers
Container such as a basket or flower pot
Artificial flowers and greenery
Styrofoam balls or blocks
Decorations such as bows or butterflies

Instructions

1 .Choose a container. Consider the size of the arrangement you want to make when selecting a container. A medium-sized container, six to 10 inches in size, needs at least two bunches of artificial flowers depending on your choice of flowers. Remember flowers should fit snugly inside the container. Let some spill over the edges, but never allow the container to hide your flowers. Think about using baskets, decorative flower pots or metal containers. Using a clear container shows flower stems and reveals artificial arrangements. A solid container hides the flower stems and the lack of water.

2 . Gather other materials. Pick up Styrofoam balls or blocks to hold your artificial arrangement in place. Know your container's dimensions or take it with you to the store to purchase the correct size. Try fitting the Styrofoam balls or blocks inside before purchasing them. Think about if you want to accessorize your artificial flower arrangement with any decorations such as butterflies, bows or birds.

3 . Select flowers. Choose flowers to match your color scheme and décor. Artificial flowers come in a wide variety of colors and sizes. Purchasing flowers by the bush is cheaper. Cut them apart to use individual flowers. Think about using flowers with soft, muted colors rather than shocking and bright colors. Look for flowers with leaves in a variety of shades and sizes. Uniformly bright green leaves look fake. Buy an extra bunch or two of greenery to add height and depth to your artificial flower arrangement.

4 . Prepare your materials. Cut the artificial flowers and greenery apart near the bottom of the stems. This offers a variety of length for your flowers. Remove all store tags and markings. Put the Styrofoam balls or blocks into your container. Make sure it fits snugly so the arrangement won't move once it is together.

5 . Put it together. Place the tallest artificial flowers and greenery in the middle of the Styrofoam balls or blocks. This gives your arrangement height. Put the shortest flowers and greenery around the outer edges. The shortest flowers can hover and fall over the rim of the vase. Rearrange the flowers and greenery until you like the way it looks. Make sure your artificial flower arrangement is full and doesn't have any blank spots.

6 . Think about point-of-view. Viewing a flower arrangement from all sides requires keeping the tall flowers in the center and placing greenery and flowers in decreasing levels around the entire perimeter. Space flowers evenly, trying not to bunch one kind of flower on one side of the arrangement

Flowers on the show

For this all-round design for a buffet or side table, I have used a glass bowl with a hollow foot, which I have filled with glass nuggets. I have used a plastic dish inside the bowl, with floral foam for the mechanics. The colour scheme is pink and silver, and I have used some pink sisal to hide the dish, and to bring the pink colouring through the design. I have wound a silver decorative rope around the sisal, for added Christmas glitz! Around the base of the design, I have inserted several silver-sprayed dried leaves of Ficus religiosa (Bo Tree). In the centre, there is a tall group of silver-sprayed birch twigs, to give height to the design. Twelve pink roses have been used at different heights, in four tiers of three roses each. At the base of the design, some individual pink Cymbidium orchids have been inserted into the foam, together with some small silver baubles. Finally, I have placed six small glass candle holders at equal distances around the glass bowl (only five can be seen, as the sixth one is at the back of the design), three holding deep pink candles, and three holding orchids. The holders with the orchids have been filled with water.

This design features "Crystal Accents" gel, which is a decorative product which when added to water, swells to form large crystals. It comes in several different colours, and looks wonderful in glass containers, especially when the sun catches it. It would be suitable for a Christmas table centre, or could be used at any other time as a table centre (e.g. wedding, anniversary or birthday celebrations) by modifying the materials and colours. I've used a round shallow glass container, with white and rose pink Crystal Accents. I've used all artificial flowers which are arranged directly into the gel, and the design is very quick to make, using just one stem of artificial pink Phalaenopsis orchids, three silver fern leaves, and about three short pieces of glittery crystal-covered stems. I've finished off the design with two mirror-glass baubles and four pink floating candles which sit on the surface of the gel.

For this design, I have used a square stoneware container, with floral foam for the mechanics. For the height, I have used some stems of Corylus avellana 'Contorta' (Contorted Hazel). There is also a group of Equisetum hyemalis (Snake Grass), with another group of this arranged horizontally on the right of the design. Foliage used is Fatsia japonica variegata, Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart', and in the centre, Heuchera 'Mint Frost'. The only flowers used are five orange mini-Gerbera, two stems of orange lilies, and a few heads of green spray Chrysanthemums. I have added a group of Crocosmia 'Lucifer' seed heads on the left of the design, and at the front, I have used two fruits of Maclura pomifera (Osage Orange). These look rather like knobbly apples, but are actually inedible. These fruits will last a very long time, probably around three months, before deteriorating. Finally, I have added some lime-green aluminium wire, for rhythm and movement in the design.

This is a traditional style symmetrical triangle design. It is made in a basic plastic dish, with one third of a block of floral foam for the mechanics. The shape was first defined with linear foliage, arranged in a triangular shape, and here I have used Phormium tenax purpurea for the height, and Lonicera nitida. I have used three dark Heuchera 'Stormy Seas' leaves in the centre to give depth to the design, and some trails of Hedera helix (Ivy). Some Rubus tricolor and larger Hedera helix leaves have also been used for a change of form and texture. The flowers used are five stems of dark terracotta spray Carnations, nine peach Roses for the focal flowers, and five stems of pale lilac Freesias for the intermediate (or filler) flowers. Pale green spray Chrysanthemums have been used for recession. I have also used a few stems of green Hedera helix flowers for added interest.

Flower arrangements shapes

These are the 6 basic flower arrangement shapes that are the easiest to start with.



ARC SHAPE


CIRCLE SHAPE



CURVE SHAPE



RIGHT ANGLE SHAPE


S CURVE SHAPE



TRIANGULAR SHAPE

Each of these arrangements is a combination of good proportion and balance.


PROPORTIONS
All good flower arrangements have 'pleasing proportions' which means it looks comfortable within the size, shape and style of container.

If you are showing a single perfect bloom in a bud vase then you can disregard all but the first rule.



These are the basic rules for good flower arranging:
Low arrangements should be a little wider than their container.

Tall arrangements should be 1 1/2 to 2 times taller than their container.

If your arrangement has a theme choose or make a container big enough to hold your arrangement.

Put enough oasis in the base to fill it up level with the top of the container. Cut off any that goes above the lip of the container.

Imagine an invisible outline of the shape you want to create and chose which side will be the front of your arrangement.

Choose your tallest and widest flowers and arrange them in your container first within the outline of your chosen shape.

Fill in around the base and lower part of the arrangement with more large blooms.

Working up and outward user smaller blooms or filler to fill in the arrangement.

Use the smallest blooms, foliage and filler to hide stems, oasis and the edge of container.



POOR BECOMES GOOD PROPORTIONS




POOR BECOMES GOOD PROPORTIONS



BALANCE
There are 2 kinds of balance; asymmetrical where the 2 sides don't match but appear to have equal weight or strength to our eyes and symmetrical where the 2 sides are nearly identical.


Remember how well-balanced plants look in the garden all by themselves? They could be an inspiration for your arrangements.

More flowers

Have you ever wondered how to arrange a bunch of flowers effectively in a vase, with no mechanics? This design is exactly that, with the flowers just arranged in water. There are a few things to take into consideration. Firstly, choose a container which tones with the colours of your flowers. Secondly, choose a container of the right height for your flowers, i.e. if you have fairly short stems, don't choose a tall container, and if you choose a short container, then cut your stems accordingly. The principle of two-thirds flowers to one-third container still applies here. Finally, choose a container with a wide enough neck to suit the number of stems you have. If you only have a few stems, then you're never going to be able to arrange your flowers properly - they are always going to splay out. For a few stems, choose a narrow-necked container. When arranging flowers just in water, begin with a few stems of foliage first, arranging them symmetrically around the vase. Add some stronger stems of flowers or foliage in the centre. Then you can add the rest of the flowers and foliage gradually, and they will be held in place by the stems of the first few flowers, making it easy to arrange them where you want them. You may need to make a few adjustments here and there for height or position as you go along, but this is quite easy to do. Keep turning the arrangement around so that you get the flowers arranged evenly, giving you correct visual and actual balance.

This is a traditional horizontal arrangement, made in a rectangular plastic shallow dish, with ¾ block of floral foam for the mechanics. This is a very versatile design which would be suitable for a table centrepiece, or a window ledge, or an arrangement for the top table at a wedding. Scaled up, it would be suitable for a design at the front of a stage, or as a double-ended funeral spray (as it's known in the floristry trade) or scaled up even more, a casket spray for a funeral. If it is made as a table centerpiece, it should be no more than 9" in height, as it's important for guests to be able to see each other across the table without having to peer through the foliage! I have defined the shape of the design with narrow Eucalyptus foliage, and added some Viburnum davidii and Hedera helix (Ivy) for a contrast of form. The flowers used are 10 stems deep pink Spray Carnations, 10 standard Carnations, pink with a darker pink edge, 2 stems green Spray Chrysanthemums for recession and an accent of colour, one large stem of pale pink Aster nova-belgie (Michaelmas Daisy), and 3 stems Stargazer Lilies for the focal flowers.

 

This is a traditional style posy table arrangement. It is made in a basic plastic dish, with one third of a block of floral foam for the mechanics. The shape was first defined with linear foliage, arranged in a circular shape, and slightly domed over the top of the design. Cotoneaster and variegated Lonicera nitida "Lemon Queen" was used here. Arachniodes adiantiformis (Leatherleaf Fern) has been used as a filler foliage. The flowers used were seven palest peach Roses for the focal flowers, with five stems of pale peach spray Carnations, and two stems of cream spray Chrysanthemums for recession. To finish the design, I have used a stem of Gypsophila 'Million Stars' as a filler and to add texture to the design.

It's important to check the shape of a posy arrangement frequently, to ensure that it is circular. I find the best way to do this is to place the arrangement on the floor and look directly over it. This will soon show you if any adjustments to the shape need to be made.

This design is in the European decorative style. This type of design can be round, oval, or triangular, and uses a lot of flowers. It has no obvious focal or dominant area, and the flowers all have equal importance. I have used a gold round bowl, with floral foam for the mechanics, and have chosen a round or posy shape. I began by establishing the shape with Eucalyptus and Fatsia japonica variegata. I then added the flowers, and these were yellow Roses, pink Lilium 'Stargazer', cerise pink spray Carnations, pink standard Carnations, purple Allium 'Purple Sensation', Tellima grandiflora, and Gypsophila 'Million Stars'.

This is a dainty little arrangement, made in a cup and saucer. When making such an arrangement, the size and colouring of the cup and saucer used must be taken into account, and small flowers which echo the colouring must be chosen. For this design, I have used a small piece of floral foam, which fits neatly into the cup, and is around 1" taller than the rim of the cup. I have chosen a posy-style design, which is suited to the shape of the cup and saucer. Small foliage was selected, and this was Buxus sempervirens (Box), Hedera helix (Ivy), and Tiarella 'Iron Butterfly', a lovely foliage which is a bright green, with a purple blotch in the centre. Flowers used were in pink colours, to match the pink design on the cup and saucer, and these were small Roses which were the focal flowers, with Tiarella 'Iron Butterfly' - a lovely flower in season in spring, with spikes of small starry palest pink flowers, Chamelaucium uncinatum (Waxflower), Gypsophila 'Million Stars', and green berries of Hypericum.

Basket arrangements

This is a basket arangement made in a traditional style. The basket has been lined inside with tinfoil to make it waterproof, and I've used floral foam for the mechanics. I have bound the handle with lime green paper ribbon, to add a bit of style and interest to it. The outline of design has been defined with linear foliage, in this case, Lonicera pileata. Some larger Hedera helix leaves have been added in the centre to give a contrast of form, and to help cover the mechanics. Next, I have added 5 stems of pink spray carnations. Then five pink roses have been added in a digonal line across the design, and 6 pale green "Prado" Carnations have also been added in a diagonal line across the design, but in the opposite direction. Some lime-green Yoko Ono" spray Chrysanthemums have been used for recession, and to lift the design and bring out the colour of the handle. Finally, for added interest and a change of form and texture, I've used some lovely Hedera helix (Ivy) berries.

This is a traditional style basket arrangement, in a symmetrical triangle shape. The basket has a high handle, which I have bound with lime-green paper ribbon. I have lined the basket with a double layer of tinfoil, as the plastic lining in such baskets cannot always be trusted to be waterproof, and used floral foam for the mechanics. To define the shape, I have used Eleagnus pungens maculata, a variegated green and yellow evergreen shrub. Other foliage used is Mahonia japonica, Viburnum davidii, Lonicera pileata, and Hedera helix. Flowers used are seven purple Dutch Iris for the focal point (some of these are not yet out in the picture), twelve pale yellow roses, five stems of yellow spray Carnations, and one stem of yellow spray Chrysanthemums for recession. A few of the Dutch Iris leaves have been looped together in bunches to add interest. Dutch Iris leaves are a beautiful silvery-green on the underside, and these have been looped with the underside of the leaves outwards, to show this off.